Frequently Asked Questions Concerning Hardwood Flooring
What should I expect if I have my wood floors refinished?
Why should I upgrade to Bona Traffic Finish?
Do you know anyone that does...?
The Quality Company's we Value & Trust
How should I clean my hardwood floor?
Is there a reason to choose red oak over white oak, or white oak over red oak?
The answer is yes! There are two main reasons one would choose red or white in preference to the other. The first reason is visual
appeal. Some people prefer the pinkish cast of red oak, while others feel the golden hue of white oak is the best background color.
Opinions vary because of personal taste, the rooms color scheme, and the species of other prominent woodwork in the room.
Unfortunately, the white or red issue is often solved by a contractor long before the home owner (who might have a preference)
gets involved with the home.
The second reason which should affect the white/red decision is the amount of traffic the floor will receive. Red oak works well in
many residential areas. However, white oak wins hands down when it comes to the dreaded "heel pecks". Therefore, for high traffic
areas like foyers and rooms for entertaining, taking a good look at white oak might save a few headaches.
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Should I use Particle Board as a subflooring material?
NOFMA's recommendation for Subflooring: With 3/4" thick strip flooring use either kiln dried boards of NO. 1 or NO. 2 Common
Pine or other dense, Group 1 softwoods suitable for subfloors over wood joists, or exterior sheathing grade plywood. If plywood,
5/8" (19/32") or 3/4" (23/32") performance rated products are preferred. Also, 3/4" (23/32") OSB is a comparable substrate. With
1/2" thick strip flooring use a 3/4" (23/32") subfloor. (See: Installing Hardwood Flooring)
The subfloor recommendation does not include particle board. Particle board, a panel product made of saw dust and or small
wood chips, does not hold fasteners properly and so cannot be recommended. The most common occurrence for encountering
particle board in a floor system is with remodeling. Particle board or a composition board underlayment is frequently used
beneath carpet and vinyl. When these products are encountered, and nail down flooring is to be a replacement, NOFMA
recommends removal of the products. After removal, inspect the existing subfloor and repair, re-fasten, or overlay to obtain a
suitable subfloor. Where removal of the particle board is not an option, the recommended procedure is to overlay it with a
minimum 5/8" plywood.
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How many times can a solid wood floor be sanded?
A definitive answer can not be given because no two people will sand a floor in the same manner. The amount of wood removed
will depend upon the number of papers (different grits) the sanding machine operator uses and the manner in which he moves the
machine.
Normally, the operator will use three papers to sand a floor. Some will only use two. This will depend on the condition of the floor
prior to sanding. Normally, a three paper sanding will remove 1/64" to near 1/32" of wood from the surface of the floor. A
NOFMA member's 3/4" thick flooring product has 19/64" of wood above the tongue so that a floor could be completely sanded
and finished numerous times (six to ten or more) before one would reach a depth where the top of the groove edge is weakened.
Typically when refinishing a recently finished floor to change color or repair a problem finish, 1/64" or less of the wood material is
removed. Thus, even more sandings can be performed on flooring that does not require the heavy sanding procedures associated
with long-term abuse.
If a floor has been abused - scratched, gouged, crowned, un-level, etc. - a significant amount of material may have to be removed to
reach a level surface. Replacement of these heavily damaged pieces may be the repair of choice in order to keep from over sanding
undamaged adjacent pieces.
In any case, a 3/4" flooring product is considered a life-time product. Under normal conditions where finishing/refinishing occurs
each 15 or so years the flooring, if not abused, will last as long as the structure.
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How should I inspect my new hardwood floor?
Inspection should be done from a standing position with normal lighting. Glare particularly from large windows, magnifies any
irregularity in the floors and should not determine acceptance.
A finish similar to that found on fine furniture should not be expected. Trash in the finish, a wavy look along strips, deep swirls or
sander marks, and splotchy areas can be indication of inadequate finishing or cleaning. The quality of the finish can be acceptable
and still include some of these problems, but they should not appear over the entire floor.
The perimeter and hard to reach areas (i.e. under radiators, around cabinets and cabinet cut-outs, closets, corners, etc.) are most
likely to contain these irregularities.
Again, when inspected from a standing position these irregularities may be present but should not be prominent.
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How should I clean my hardwood floor?
The most important thing to do, is to first vacuum and dust mop regularly, and as often as necessary. For some families and most
business, this may mean every day.
Don't damp mop on a weekly schedule, damp mop only as needed, i.e., when the floor is dirty. Even then, cleaning on a spot basis
will suffice. Often the maid service will want to do this weekly, but that will cause the finish to wear faster.
When you do need to clean the floor, we recommend water and vinegar and a lightly damp mop. You should not use anything that
leaves a residue. Even the products that spray on the mop have silicones that can interfere with the finish and oil-soaps can cause
intercoat adhesion problems.
On a seal and wax finish, you should sweep or vacuum up all grit, dirt and dust, then buff to renew the shine. When the shine can
not be renewed, then you must re-wax the floor. With this type of finish you might only need to re-wax small high-traffic areas. In
any case, do not use water on a waxed floor.
Be sure to follow the finish manufacturer's advice on your floor. As a rule, do not use ammonia-based cleaners, they tend to dull
modern finishes. We do not advocate any particular cleaning product. The finish manufacturers are the best source for that
information.
The best way to clean a hardwood floor, is to keep the dirt and grit off! This means putting walk-off mats at all exterior doors, and
using floor protectors on chair legs. Sweep or vacuum regularly, depending on your lifestyle. When you leave dirt and grit on
your floors, you are just grinding the finish away. If you don't know what type of finish is on your wood, ask a flooring contractor.
Wax should be buffed or cleaned with a renovator product.
Any hard surface, like polyurethane, you can use a neutral, no-rinse cleaner. It's best to maintain your finish with the
manufacturer's product.
Use as little water as possible. Go back over the area with a dry towel to make sure water does not sit on the surface. Put an area
rug in front of the sink, to keep water off the floor.
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How can I keep my wood floor from turning dark?
As most any wood product ages it's color will change. This change is most often influenced by the nature of the wood species and
by light intensity or oxidation. Other factors involve the finishing materials used on the flooring. The finish products themselves
also change color with age. The degree of change with finishes is influenced by light intensity and "UV" blockers in the finish. One
exception is with new oil modified "polys" less than 22-3 months old. This material when covered or shaded by rugs or other items
will generally darken considerably. If the shade is later removed a "partial" reversal will take place over time.
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Can radiant heating systems be compatible with wood flooring both solid and engineered?
"YES" with certain cautions and restraints.
First of all, check with the manufacturer for their recommendations.
The most common recommendation for all systems is to have the heating system installed and "on line", running, before wood
flooring products are delivered. Most contractors report a minimum of 72 hours of heating is required to dry the system; however,
a week or more is suggested. Light weight concrete, gypcrete, gypsum slurrys, etc. tend to dry slowly so that the extra time is
necessary.
For engineered flooring: adhesive applications, the adhesive manufacturer should be consulted for compatibility with the heating
system. Engineered flooring mechanically fastened, - use fasteners which do not extend below the subfloor material.
For solid wood flooring, the following three installation systems are the most common:
1) Plywood subflooring over the heated slab. If the slab is on grade, above grade, in contact with the ground, or over an
uncontrolled environment; a vapor retarder of 6 mil polyethylene, should be placed over the slab. Do not glue the polyethylene. A
proper subfloor can be composed of 2 layers of 1/2" plywood, southern yellow pine or douglas fir. The first layer is placed on the
normal square of the room; the second layer on a 45 degree angle to the first layer; space 1/4" to 1/2" around the perimeter of
panels of both layers; pin plywood together with 7/8" ring shank nails or screws; nail from center out on a 6" grid pattern, avoid
trapping a hump between layers; nail flooring to plywood with fasteners which do not extend below plywood. You may have to
cut the nails for face nailing starter and finish runs. An alternate method is to use 16" wide x 8' long 3/4" thick plywood planks,
scored across the back 3/8" deep every 12" or so. Score more often if curling of the plywood is a problem. Lay these planks over
the slab perpendicular to the direction of the flooring and stagger plank ends at least 2 ft. with up to 1" space along edges and 1/8"
to 1/4" space between ends. Always use at least a 2 ft. length of plywood plank at flooring starting wall and ending wall. Fill in
short pieces in the center of the room. Again use appropriate length fasteners (1 1/2") for blind nailing and cut the nails to less than
1 1/2" lengths for face nailing.
2) Conventional wood joist construction with heating tubes fastened to the underside of the subfloor; with this installation fastener
length is important also. No fastener should penetrate through the subfloor and risk puncturing a tube.
3) Conventional wood joist construction with 3/4" or thicker firring strips fastened to subflooring; the heating tubes run between
the strips with light weight concrete, gypsum, etc., poured over and around the tubes filling the space between the firring strips.
The flooring is nailed to the firring strips. Firring strips should be group #1 dense softwoods (southern yellow pine, douglas fir,
larch, etc.) spaced 12" on center or less and well attached to the subfloor. Flooring is oriented perpendicular to firring and nailed to
firring strips.
When deciding on radiant heat under hardwood flooring keep in mind the following:
1) Strip or plank less than 4" wide is recommended, the more narrow the better . Edge grain or quartered product is also more
stable.
2) Use a moisture meter to check average moisture content of the flooring, make 20 or more readings and average them.
3) Acclimate to the average condition of the area. Heating does not occur year round so the contractor must allow for the expected
flooring expansion of the non-heating season, in most areas. In other words, try to avoid installing a very dry flooring product over
a very dry system in the winter with the heat running. If flooring has to be installed under these conditions provide adequate field
expansion or "spacer rows" to accommodate expected expansion.
4) With radiant floor heating some extra cracks between strips may be expected in the finished floor during the heating season. But
they should not be significantly greater than a non-heated floor where proper installation guidelines are followed and occupied
jobsite conditions are met.
5) Provide an outside thermostat to call for heat during rapid outside temperature drops. These heating systems are slow to react
and pre-heating helps even the demand load. Do not use "set back" thermostats. Continually changing the temperature shocks the
flooring and finish with excessive heat and can cause performance problems.
6) It is not necessary to use asphalt felt (or rosin paper) under flooring as some odors may develop when heated.
In summary, wood flooring and radiant heating can perform very well together for the life of the structure. Be sure the job site is
ready for the flooring installation and check the moisture content of the flooring to establish the present condition and provide
necessary spacing for the expected movement.
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What can I do for a Cupped floor?
1) The most common cause for cupping is excess moisture, which originates from the subfloor, crawl space, basement, and/or slab.
Excessive moisture is usually indicated when the average moisture content of the underfloor materials (checked in several places)
is more than 4% higher than the average expected EMC (equilibrium moisture content) for the area. (Ref. Behavior of Flooring and
Cupping & Crowning*)
If excessive moisture is the cause, identify the source, remedy the problem, then allow the flooring to re-acclimate to the new drier
environment (this may take a heating season). After drying to normal conditions, the flooring should flatten.
If the floor flattens with no significant cracks, movement between pieces, or noises (crackles and squeaks) no further action may be
required.
Along with the drying, shrinkage cracks, movement, and/or noises may result. For new floors with prominent cracks, movement,
and/or noises throughout; re-installation and/or replacement may be indicated. For a floor with the occasionally occurring larger
crack (up to 3/32") , with occasional movement and/or noise, with smaller shrinkage cracks (less than 1/32") and little or no
additional movement or noises; a good choice for repair is to:1) re-fasten the flooring in those areas which exhibit movement and
noises; 2) properly fill the cracks (fill from tongue level to surface, filler should not simply bridge the crack); and 3) re-coat or
re-finish.
2) Cupping can also be caused by the flooring acclimating to the area or space environment which has a higher EMC than the
average moisture content at installation. This cupping is generally permanent and changes little with the seasons.
For permanent cupping (cupping that has not changed noticeably in 12 + months) sanding the floor flat is the most common option,
followed by refinishing. In order to maintain the "before refinishing" environment the same type of finish materials and number of
coats should be used. After finishing, the floor should remain flat as long as the environment does not change from the previous
norm.
For the permanently cupped floor which shows a small difference in the cupping with the seasons (i.e. cups more during the
humid season) sanding at mid season (spring, fall) mediates the expected change.
3) For minor cupping (cupping which is not prominent and generally only noticeable in reflected light from large windows etc)
where traffic wear has not worn the finish on the slightly raised edge, you may have to accept the condition. Over time, 2-4 years,
the cupping will probably subside.
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What causes loose, squeaky, creaking, or crackling in hardwood flooring?
The cause(s) of these conditions may be singular or multiple and include one or more of the following.
Noises and/or movement may result from:
Subfloor to support (joist) connections: i.e.; nail movement in plywood; glue set before plywood installation; laterally moving
plywood across glue bead, etc.
Flooring to subfloor connections: i.e.; lack of nailing; lack of adequate nailing near ends; improper fasteners such as small wire
nails; where staples are used- over driven staples, and broken tongues; etc.
Flooring match or tongue and groove fit: i.e., tongue too small for groove or tongue too big for groove, etc.
Moisture change: i.e., too much moisture which loosens fasteners, excessive drying which disengages flooring, system stress as
moisture tightens a floor, etc.
System specification: i.e., inadequate subfloor materials, excessive spans or spacing, etc. Again, any one or all of the above may
contribute to a performance problem.
Remedies for floors which show movement and/or are noisy:
First, if an area of multiple strips move together in unison, a system problem may be the indicated cause. This may require
brackets to pull the subfloor to joist from below, and/or face nailing or screwing into joists from above.
Second, If singular strips move, a nailing/fastening or match problem may be the indicated cause. When this condition occurs over
an entire floor, if accessible, screwing from below with drywall screws with washers to back the head may correct the problem. If
the underfloor is not accessible, general face nailing, specifically into joists may correct the problem. As a last resort replacement
may be required.
For single strip movement in smaller specific areas (not over the entire floor), screwing from below and/or face nailing the
indicated areas, most always remedies the movement and noise.
Third, if an excessive or high moisture condition has occurred or is present, the cause(s) must be identified and remedied. The
flooring should then be allowed to re-acclimate to the new conditions before other remedial repair is initiated.
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I have a new house. We have 2 1/4" strip hardwood floors throughout, and this winter, we
had numerous cracks. Some of them are so large, you can stand a quarter up in them. What
do I do with my unsightly floors? I know some cracks may form in the winter, but these
seem excessive. What is the standard to determine if the crack is too wide?
First, there is no standard for determining if a crack of a particular size is not acceptable or excessive. Cracks are considered
"normal cracks" if they close during the humid season of the year. If the cracks close, the natural wood product is simply absorbing
the environmental moisture available, expanding, and filling the gap.
To prevent unsightly normal cracks, the environment must be modified to minimize the difference between the "Humid" and "Dry"
seasons. De-humidification above and below the flooring in the summer may be necessary, conversely, humidification during
winter heating may also be required.
Permanent cracks may be filled with an appropriate filler and/or by recoating the flooring. This should generally be done during
the Spring or Fall when conditions are not extreme and more average. For much of the USA, October and April are the preferred
months for remedial action.
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(Mrs. Homeowner) I have a relatively new home, about a year old, with strip flooring on the
first (ground) floor. The home is over a crawl space that is reported to be mostly dry. My
floors cupped this summer and are very unsightly. I want to know who is responsible for the
cupping and what can be done about it?
In virtually every case, flooring cupping is the result of excess moisture beneath the floor. The source(s) of such moisture must be
identified and eliminated. Evidence of such moisture may be water or mud in the crawlspace, or mildew on the framing. Some
typical sources of excess crawlspace moisture are: improper drainage of water runoff; faulty gutters or downspouts; soaker or
sprinkler systems which direct water near or against the foundation; improper grading or backfill; seepage due to terrain features;
improper drainage from HVAC or other household equipment.
Recommendation:
NOFMA recommends that a crawlspace be kept dry. Water, mud or excessively damp earth should not be present. A good ground
cover (6-mil poly or equivalent) over 100% of the crawlspace earth should be installed as an effective moisture barrier, and good
cross ventilation should be present.
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Q & A Information provided courtesy of the National Oak Flooring Manufacturing Association
NATIONAL OAK FLOORING MANUFACTURING ASSOCIATION HOME PAGE
NOFMA: The Wood Flooring Manufacturers Association
Copyright © 1997-2004. All Rights Reserved.
Raphael Hardwood Flooring specializes in the custom Installation, Sanding, Refinishing & Repair of genuine hardwood floors.
Raphael Hardwood Flooring proudly serves the Lodi, Woodbridge, Stockton & surrounding central California communities.
Joshua R. Raphael - Proprietor & Contractor, License # 797226 Office: 209.366.0664 Fax: 209.366.0554 P.O. Box 598 Woodbridge, CA 95258
Raphael Hardwood Flooring proudly serves the Lodi, Woodbridge, Stockton & surrounding central California communities.
Joshua R. Raphael - Proprietor & Contractor, License # 797226 Office: 209.366.0664 Fax: 209.366.0554 P.O. Box 598 Woodbridge, CA 95258
